Border Collie Puppies
Last updated on March 16th, 2016
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To view the Active people on the deposit list: Click here
Watch video clips of the pups to see all the training and socializing we do with them before 9 weeks!
Click on this Youtube link! Go to
You can read what we do with our pups the first 9 weeks! CLICK HERE
We are in East/Central Oklahoma. 1 mile from the Arkansas Border- 90 miles straight east of Tulsa, OK or 1 hour north of Salisaw, OK. 45 minutes from Fayetteville, AR. Nearest airport is XNA, with TUL being 2nd closest.
We ship happy, well trained puppies all over the world! 918 723-3052
Credit cards are accepted over the phone.
My pups are $1,500 & includes full registration.

Trendy and Axel litter was born on Feb 5th, 2016 (Repeat breeding)
Trendy and Axel are both OFA Good and CEA Normal.
These pups are all at least medium coated.


Photos of the parents are below.
Vault and Lock-Eye Peck litter is born on Feb 19th,2016
Vault is a full sister littermate to Savvy.
Vault's hips are OFA Good and eyes are CEA Normal by parentage, Peck's hips are OFA Good CEA Normal.



Pics of the parents are below.


Snazzy and Peck have been bred and are due on April 13th, 2016
Snazzy is OFA Excellent and CEA Normal. Peck is OFA Good and CEA Normal.
This will be an all long coated litter. Blue merle Tri's possible as well as tri's in other colors.
Red and white, Black and white, Red merle and blue merles. Rainbow litter!
Feena and Reece have been bred and her litter is due around April 23rd, 2016

Note on health testing. All are OFA tested and at least one parent is CEA Normal.
Some litters have both parents CEA Normal. AKC registered.
Some litters can be ABCA registered also.
My pups are $1,300 for those that will be Spayed or Neutered (Non-breeding contract) at 10-18 months.
If you want to keep your Border Collie intact, Breeding contracts are $200 more. ($1,500)
Blue merle pups are $1,500, full reg included
Email me at:
or text/call (918) 723-3052

Subscribe to our YouTube site to watch video clips of training and playing with the pups!
Go to ______________________________________________________________________________________________


The info page was created to help prepare you for the pup's arival and
how to prevent the most common mistakes in the first year.

Click here to see video clips!
Video clips!

Lock-Eye Puppy Page. Read the entire page for a wealth of information. Plus visit our info and references pages!
To view the Active people on the deposit list: Click here
NOTE: If you have trouble viewing the deposit list, email me and I will email it to you.
Email me at:

I'll tweet when I've updated my web site, or when a new litter is born!

"Like" us on our Lock-Eye Border Collie Face Book Fan Page! Lots of candid pics and videos of current litters!

We give our dogs Rubi RawHide chews!
My pups are $1,300 for those that will be Spayed or Neutered (Non-breeding contract) at 10-12 months.
If you want to keep your Border Collie intact, Breeding contracts are $200 more. ($1,500)
Blue merle pups are $1,500 full reg included
The purchase price includes the microchip and registering the chip with the national database, Clicker training DVD and a Clicker, We also provide a new collar and leash, a dog food sample, and a shot record. All our males and females (Parents) are AKC Registered and the Litter your puppy is from has been AKC Registered.
You will receive an Application to register your individual puppy and when you have decided on a formal name
[Lock-Eye as a prefix], you can go online (Or mail the form with AKC registration fee of $30) to complete the process.
(ABCA papers can be obtained for some of our litters for an extra charge)

Our pups are exceptional because of everything we do to prepare them for the world.
1) At 3 days old, we start "Early Neurological Stimulation" (Clips are on youtube of this) and continue until 16 days.
2) At 2 weeks old, we bottle feed our puppies to facilitate early bonding with humans. They still have access to their mom for nursing.
3) We grind their nails with a dremel and brush them prior to photos.
4) We handle/interact with our pups often and when they start playing at 3 weeks and 3 days
5) When they are able to play with toys and tug, we provide many different types/textures of toys to learn to play.
6) They are given tunnels, stairs, tippy boards, boxes,toys that make noise and toys that stimulate their senses to help them to be less reactive to things in their environment.
When we toss a new item into their play area, they all rush to investigate like kids after candy!
7) We also play sound CD's to help our pups acclimate to noises that might be scary to a puppy or adult dog. Fireworks, cars, trains, guns, etc.
8) We have a variety of animals for our pups to play with, including cats (Who love pups and teach them to respect cats), "little dogs" including a mini Doxie, Papillions and a mini Staffy "pit bull" mix and of course adult dogs who like to visit puppies. 8) We have neighbor kids who play with each litter and also a 2 year old toddler who comes to visit and is very gentle with the pups!
9) A variety of adults hold, pet and help train them.
10) We start clicker training our puppies at 5 weeks old and if you watch our youtube clips of past litters, you will be amazed at how much we teach our pups before they are 9 weeks old!!! They learn Come, Sit, Down, Wave Hello,Shake Hands,"Kiss on cue" and are Leash and Crate trained. They sometimes even learn to ring a bell to ask to go out to potty, Roll over, sit up and some--believe it or not, TALK!! Rooo Rooo! Go to (CLICK ON SEE ALL or VIDEOS)
11) They learn to use a Doggie Door and also a Potty Box.
12) Excellent food! Our puppies eat Taste Of The Wild dog food soaked in goats milk at first and then dry kibble by 9 weeks old. ( )


Keep scrolling down for more information!!

Look for this mailbox at the end of our driveway when you visit.
The puppy in the mailbox is grown now. :-)

Watch new clips on youtube! (CLICK ON SEE ALL)

Click here to e-mail Lock-eye Border Collies Questions or Comments about the pups?? Questions or Comments about Email me at:

Note: My Email may or may not reach me. Feel free to call me at: 918 723-3052 (text also) Michelle Weese

We are in North East-Central Oklahoma and are 1 mile from the Arkansas Border or 90 miles straight east of Tulsa, OK
We ship our pups all over the world! Recently we shipped pups to Italy and New Dehli, India!
Scroll completely down the page too see all the pups and litters due with pics of parents.
They are all AKC registered and ABCA registered upon request. (Some are only AKC registered)

We have 60 acres with two hay fields, wooded trails and creeks for our Border Collies to enjoy!
Below is a photo taken one winter of our farm. We raise hair sheep, a mix of Katahadin and Dorper.
Our Border Collies herd and we wouldn't breed them if they didn't work livestock.
We also have a small group of "feeder calves" we raise up for the freezer. Nothing like homegrown beef!

Above is a clip of two pups that are now sold, but it shows part of our property and how we take our pups on hikes.

CLICK HERE to read what all we do the first 9 weeks!

Want to see clips? (CLICK ON SEE ALL)

Our puppies eat Taste Of The Wild dog food soaked in goats milk at first and then dry kibble by 9 weeks old
( )

I do Early Neurological Stimulation with my pups starting at 3 days.
Read more about this at:
I start bottle feeding them for bonding purposes at 2 weeks old. They still have complete access to their mom.
Their nails are trimmed with the dremel weekly.
As they start eating gruel at 3 weeks old, I will whistle to them before putting the dish down and also say "Puppy, Come!"
Between 4-5 weeks, we charge the clicker and at 5 weeks old start their formal, clicker training lessons.
They are leash & crate trained, they also know the commands, Come, Sit, Wave hello, Shake Hands, Down by the time they are 9 wks.


The info page was created to help prepare you for the pup's arival and
how to prevent the most common mistakes in the first year.

Click here to see video clips!
Video clips!

If you have questions about the pups, call or text message to my cell phone 9187233052
Click here to e-mail Lock-eye Border Collies Questions or Comments about the pups?? Questions or Comments about Email me at:

Note: My Email may or may not reach me. Feel free to call me at: 918 723-3052 (text also) Michelle Weese

Why a Lock-Eye?
CLICK HERE to read what all we do the first 9 weeks!
(Be sure and visit our reference page too!)

Click here to e-mail Lock-eye Border Collies Questions or Comments about the pups?? Questions or Comments about Email me at:

Note: My Email may or may not reach me. Feel free to call me at:918 723-3052 (text also) Michelle Weese

CALL for any information regarding pups
918 723-3052

Subscribe to our YouTube site to watch video clips of training and playing with the pups!
Go to (CLICK ON Videos and more)

Email me for a copy of the contract in word doc format.
Or click on this button

Click on the button above for prices and my puppy contract.
To view the Active people on the deposit list:

Click here to e-mail Lock-eye Border Collies Questions or Comments about the pups??
Email me at:

Note: My Email may or may not reach me. Feel free to call me at: 918 723-3052 (text also) Michelle Weese
*Ask for a free copy of our DVD's. Clicker Training, Herding Demo, and 2 "Pup-TV's" (Limited time offer)

Border Collie puppies bred by Lock-Eye Border Collies are in training around the world! Lock-Eye Border Collies produce awesome puppies for a variety of activities. We offer border collie puppies for sale that are selectively bred for their intense work ethic and endurance. Our dogs excel at herding and work cattle, sheep and ducks. We have also sold several dogs that work as "Goose Control dogs." These dogs scare off ("Herd") wild geese that refuse to migrate and are a health hazard to the public. Lock-Eye Border Collies also compete in top level Canine Sports, such as Agility, Flyball and Obedience. There are also many Lock-Eye Border Collies around the country doing Search and Rescue and several puppies in training. We are proud of them all! We are located in North Eastern Oklahoma. (Westville,Oklahoma)
Feel free to call me at: 918 723-3052 (Michelle Weese) if you would like to talk the "Old Fashioned Way."

Lock-Eye DessaI especially have a soft spot in my heart for Search and Rescue dogs. The dog pictured left and right is a Smooch x Bronze daughter born 1-14-02. Dessa is an acronym for Drive Energy, Search for the Scent and Alert. Dessa is owned and trained by Kelly Pontbriand. Dessa was certified with Maine Search and Rescue Dogs as a wilderness search dog in May 2004. Since that time, she has responded to many searches with her handler. During several searches, she located and indicated to her handler several potential clues. In another search, she picked up a scent pool and worked confidently under a low hovering helicopter that flew over to see if they could spot the missing subjects. Dessa continues her training throughout the year and will be ready to go when the next call comes along. Kelly works for the National Park Service and have been using border collies for search and rescue work since 1987. Dessa is her 3rd Border Collie she has trained in this lifesaving work.
Dessa also "talks" on command. It's guaranteed to bring a smile. (Click on the link to the left to hear her talk.)

Our Border Collie puppies for sale are the result of a breeding program which is a very selective process. Many people expect to get the perfect dog by just putting two Border Collies together. Nothing could be further from reality! We study each potential Dam and Sire objectively to determine what qualities each might bring to the gene pool of the puppies. Temperament is as equally as important as herding ability, for without a biddable nature, the working relationship between human and dog suffers.

We spend many hours clicker training our puppies before they go to their new homes. Behaviors learned are Come (recall), Sit, Down, Wave Hello,
Roll over, fetch toys, tug and they are leash and crate trained. Most recently, we have started teaching them to hit the staples Easy button!

Click on the red button below to see what commands we teach our puppies before they go to their new homes!!


The info page was created to help prepare you for the pup's arival and
how to prevent the most common mistakes in the first year.

Click here to see video clips!
Video clips!

Email me for a copy of the contract in word doc format.
Or click on this button

When sending a deposit (via
paypal or by check) fill out the puppy contract, sign and email or snail mail it back to me.


Note: To see available pups, go to the top of the page and scroll down.

Below is the exact method of how we raise our puppies & clicker training the first 9 weeks

Our puppies are born into a loving environment. Our whelping boxes are set up in our dining room.
There are X-pens around them so the mom's can stretch and have access to food and water and get away from their pups
At 3 days old, we start "Early Neurological Stimulation" (Click on the blue link to read more about it.)
At 2 weeks, the pups are bottle fed once a day to encourage bonding with humans. They still have total access to their mom of course.

3 weeks old- The pups eat their first meal other than milk. It is gruel made from puppy food in a blender with goats milk.
At this age, they wear a lot of the their food. It's quite funny!
I use a muffin pan to help them learn to eat and discourage walking in their food. Pups are also wormed at 3 weeks.
At 3 & 1/2 weeks, the pups start to come alive!
They start to hear and there are darling puppy barks coming from the whelping box at this time. The pups are given safe infant toys with rattles and bells to play with. They are given tug toys also so they can learn to tug!
They need more space at 3 weeks, so I take the pups out of the whelping box and have them in an area where they can play, sleep and go to a specific area to potty. I use shredded newspaper to encourage this. Having a special area to potty is the beginning of house training. Around 4-5 weeks, I add specific boxes for the paper that they can crawl or hop into to go potty. They rarely soil their sleeping and playing area after 4 weeks old.
At 4 weeks old, they are eating kibble (Taste of the wild) and frozen Bil Jac dog food (thawed of course)
They are getting much more agile and go further away from their play area to potty, so I move the boxes to the far end of the pen. Since they are playing more, I give them things to crawl over and under and larger toys that make more noise.
I grind their nails weekly to get them used to having that done and also brush them before photos are taken.
5 weeks old: This is the age we start clicker training and also crate training. They are moved to a larger area either in our garage which is set up like "Romper room" or outside with a large playhouse (8 feet by 12 feet) that is climate controlled. There is a doggie door that leads to an outside play yard and enough little tikes play toys to make any toddler jealous. They have tunnels and stairs, slides and wobble boards.
We have a crate set up for each puppy. They are put in the crates for naps and meals. There is a CD player and TV set up for listening to CD's that are for sound desensitization. This includes Children playing, fire trucks, thunder storms, fire works, gunfire, babies screaming and even dogs barking, vacuum cleaners, kitchen sounds and rain on a tin roof.

Clicker Training method:

To begin their clicker training, we first need to do something called "Charging the clicker." This is done by clicking the clicker and then giving them a tiny bite of a food they love. (Chicken, cheese or beef) You do this over and over-----click/treat--click/treat--click/treat until when you click, the pup turns around expecting a treat! At that point, you wait to click until the pup has done something you want to put a name to later. Such as coming to you, sitting or laying down. The first thing the pups learn is "Come!" I will simply walk away and 99.9 % of the time, the pups trot along after me. I will Click and Treat as soon as the pup gets to me. Where you give the pup the food is very important in shaping it's behavior. I will bend down slightly and offer the treat right in front of me, in between my front feet. Close to you as possible.

Never walk to the pup and give it the treat. If it's not coming to you, then you go over to the pup and show the pup the food, by briefly touching your fingers holding the food to it's nose and then backing away slowly. If he's hungry, he will come with you! THEN, click and treat when he's right between your feet. Repeat many times, changing the direction you walk to. Don't walk over to the same spot and you can sometimes walk around a corner to see if the pup will follow you. Click and treat every time the pup runs to you. When the pup "gets the game"--and you can tell when he does, because the pup will be hard to fool! You won't be able to get away from it. Now, you give the Come! command just before walking away. Click and treat as usual when the pup gets to you. Do not repeat the command. NEVER say Come! Come! Come! Come!
That is only teaching your pup to ignore you! Instead, if your pup ignores you, turn around and walk away. Sometimes this is like a magnet--it attracts them. Then you can click and treat. If the pup doesn't come, I will show it the food again and go back to the first step. (Not saying the command first)

The 2nd behavior I teach my pups is either Sit or Down, depending on what the pup offers. When I say "Offer," what I really mean is what he does without you luring or guiding him into place using food. It is much better to allow the pup to learn clicker off this way.
If you always lure him into position, he doesn't learn to think for himself! They "get the game" much faster if you wait until your pup spontaneously sits or downs and you click and treat him. He will think "What did I do to get her to click?"
If the pup looses interest, you can show it the food, but then put your hand behind your back or off to the side of your leg. You just want to show it what it's working for, not use it as a bribe.
You wait, tick tock, tick tock.......the pup sits or downs a 2nd time-- you click and treat. It might take 10-25 times and then the pup will start smacking his bottom or tummy on the floor understanding that is what got you to click! This is when you start adding the command of "Sit" or "Down" just prior to the pup doing it. (One second before it does the behavior--- you can tell by his body language that it is going to do the behavior for sure.) Practice this until the pup connects the command word with the actual behavior.

*NOTE*Some behaviors are learned faster by using a lure and some behaviors are almost impossible to catch the pup doing them "naturally."

The 3rd Behavior the pup learns is to Wave Hello! (This can also be shake hands) Wait until the pup sits--but don't tell it to sit. In this case, you can lure the sit. The reason you don't want to give the pup a sit command before you begin teaching the wave is that the pup will start to think that Sit means sit and wave, not just sit. The same is true for other commands. You don't want to say the name of a different command before you start teaching a new one. Later, much later, you will be giving many different commands, but at that time, the pup will have a full understanding of what the previous commands are.

To teach the Wave or Shake hands: I take a piece of food and put it between my thumb and 2nd finger. Let the pup smell it and then hold it still at the pup's chin level. If you raise it up too high, the pup will jump up and if you have it too low, the pup will lay down. Chin level is the correct spot. Leave it there and the pup will raise it's foot up to paw at your hand. CLICK and then open your hand and give the food.
Do this until the pup readily paws at your hand, then go a step further, but giving a hand signal with your pointing finger. Show the pup the food and then wave at it with your finger, then when the pup paws at your hand, take it away the split second before it makes contact. Click and treat while the pup's paw is in the air. Repeat and hold out for the waves that are the highest--only click those! after they are high, wait for one or two waves or even three before you click and treat. It really becomes a waving action then! Or if you just want the pup to hold it's paw still in the air, click that instead. (It will look like a Salute.) When you get the behavior like you want it, then add the cue word/command just prior to giving the hand signal.

Crate training and riding in cars: Starting at 5 weeks the pups are put into crates in pairs for about 15 minutes to start, then gradually, I increase the time. At 6 weeks old, they are usually up to around two hours crate time several times a day.
They are taken on short rides to the post office or another short errand. It is rare for the pups to get sick or even cry.
The prior crate training they have plus the sound of the engine/vibration puts them right to sleep.

* All of the above behaviors are learned between 5 weeks old and the end of the 6th week.

Starting the 7th week:

The 4th Behavior will be Down or Sit, depending on what the pup did for the 2nd behavior. If he learned Down, then I will lure him up with a piece of food into the sit position. It only takes a few times before you have it on a hand signal. I use the palm of the hand going upwards. After the pup is going into a sit from the down position, I then add the verbal command just prior to my hand signal.
If the pup learned sit first, to teach the down I will wait the pup out. You can work on the other behaviors for a few minutes and then sit down in a quiet room. The pup might get frustrated and jump around acting silly. Try to stare at the floor, don't stare directly at the pup. If he accidentally falls down while jumping around, then Click and treat! Sooner than you think, the pup will lay down. When he does, click and give him a handful of treats (JACKPOT!) while praising him with your voice and or petting him. Have a party for a few seconds.
*NOTE* Give the food on the floor--don't offer the food up high. The pup will gravitate to where you feed it, so feed it on the floor! Even if the pup gets up, keep the food low to feed it. Then wait again. You can give the pup a sniff of the treat in your hand, but then hide it again. Wait---the pup will lay down, and get a click and treat. In maybe 1 or 2 lessons, he will be flopping himself down on the floor and looking up at you in anticipation of the click and treat!

5th Behavior is Roll over! Lure the pup into a down (No verbal cues to down, because we aren't working on Down and don't want to get the pup confused between down and roll over.) Pup is lured down and then you take note of which way it's hips are resting. If one is flat on the ground, it will probably be easier to get your pup to roll over that direction. Place the food near the nose and s-l-o-w-l-y lead it's nose to the pup's side and then click and treat. Repeat several times. After the pup easily goes that far, move your hand with the treat further over it's back and it should follow you and roll over. Click and give a jackpot! Lots of treats this time.

Crate training during the 7th to 9th weeks: We gradually increase the time the pups are in their individual crates to about 4 hours for the longest time. They are put into the crates for short (30 minutes to an hour) time spans also.
This is usually when we feed them after clicker training them. After eating a full meal, they have to potty about 30 minutes later. Our normal long crate time is noon to 3 or 4 PM. I've found that the pups are on a natural siesta and just sleep, so it makes learning easier. In addition to the normal crate training, we start playing "Crate Games" with them. Susan Garrette has a DVD called Crate Games. It can be ordered at her web site. Click on the blue link to the left

You can also see video examples of all the above behaviors being taught to our puppies at our Video Example page.
Click on the red button below!
Click here to see video clips!

At 7 weeks old, we start Leash Training. The pup is wearing a leash, but I do not pull the pup in any way. The pup learns when it goes to the end of the leash, if it comes back in my direction, it is given a click and treat. I don't walk towards the pup to give the treat--- instead, I click for a step in my direction and then hold the treat against the front of my pants. This will encourage a front recall later. It generally only takes one lesson to each this the pup not to pull!
If I stand in one spot for a while and the pup doesn't give up, I will simply say "Come" because the pup has already learned this and 99% of the time, the pup will bound towards me.
I start teaching the pup where I want it to walk by showing the pup the food in my left hand and move the hand slowly towards my left leg. Sometimes I will take one step back and then one forward to bring the pup into "Heel" position.
(The pup is in "Heel" position when it's shoulder is in line with the seam of my pants.) If the pup stands or sits in heel position even a few seconds, click and treat again--but REMEMBER to feed against the seam of your pants leg.
When you give the treat, have the palm side of your hand facing backwards where the pup can see the treat. If your hand/treat is facing forwards, it will cause the pup to curve around to where it can get to the treat.
Gradually take more steps before you click and treat. Only click when the pup is in the actual "Heel" position and then FEED IN HEEL POSITION! A dog (or any animal) will gravitate (be pulled towards) the area where it gets the reward.

Puppy Picking Day is at 7 weeks old. The reason we wait until the pups are 7 weeks old is so that we can better determine their temperaments and personality traits, including drive level and intensity. We want to place pups that are the highest drive in preformance or herding homes and those that are lower in drive in active pet homes. The pups that are medium drive have their place also. We get to know the people who have sent in deposits to better suggest pups that match their lifestyles.

Deposits and other misc information. We have a waiting list for our pups. To be put on the waiting list, you would need to send in a deposit for half the purchase price of a pup. Since I have lots of litters coming up soon, there wouldn't be a long wait for a pup. Picking order is based on the date the deposit was received, so get yours in soon!
Email me for a copy of the contract in word doc format.
OR click on this button

(Be sure and visit our reference pages too!)

Click here to e-mail Michelle Questions or Comments about this site or call 918 723-3052



The info page was created to help prepare you for the pup's arival and
how to prevent the most common mistakes in the first year.

Click here to see video clips!
Video clips!

pClick here to e-mail Lock-eye Border Collies Questions or Comments about the pups??
Email me at:

Note: My Email may or may not reach me. Feel free to call me at: 918 723-3052 (text also) Michelle Weese

This is a photo of Michelle and one of her Border Collies, Wyn


Click on the red button below to see what commands we teach our puppies before they go to their new homes!!

Click here to see video clips!

call 918 723-3052

Why a Lock-Eye?
Read below what all we do the first 9 weeks!
(Be sure and visit our reference page too!)

918 723-3052

Click here to see video clips!
Video clips!

Our puppies are raised in the house with human interaction. The advantage of working at home raising Border Collies is that I am there to mold their minds in these critical first 8 weeks of life. This is my "day job" - (24/7 acutally). You can never make up for lack of socialization at this stage, so I take my work very seriously! When the puppies are 2 weeks old, they are fed "fresh squeezed" goats milk from a bottle. This has an amazing effect on the puppies. There is a vast difference in a puppy that is bottle fed and one that isn't. Feeding pups from a bottle imprints them on humans. They are still allowed complete access to mothers milk, of course.


We take each puppy out individually and clicker train them as soon as they can take a treat from your hand. When they go to their new homes, Lock-Eye Border Collie puppies have already learned commands such as Come,Sit, Down, and Wave. They are Leash Trained, play ball, AND tug like Pit bulls. Some learn fetch before the leave also! If you aren't familiar with clicker training, it is a totally positive method of training, adapted from the way Dolphins are trained. Instead of a whistle, we use a "Clicker." It is so easy, it could be mistaken for magic! I refer to my clicker as a "magic wand!" With your new puppy, we send our Lock-Eye Clicker Video or DVD on how to Clicker train.

Click here to see video clips!
More Video clips!

For more information on clicker training, read our class handout from Ain't Misbehavin' Clicker training classes and visit Gary Wilke's web site at: I highly recommend all of his video tapes! Corally Burmaster also has an excellent video on Clicker training pups! Visit her web site at: pppp /Gems/

We crate train our puppies starting at 5-6 weeks old. We do this by first leaving an open crate in the puppy play area.
They naturally go in it when they are sleepy. We then close the door for 30 minutes, or until they wake up and need to go potty.
Right outside the door to the crate, we put a "litter box" (a large wooden frame with shredded paper). The puppies learn to use it!
They potty as soon as they get out of the crate, and I gradually move the box to a corner of the pen. This keeps the play pen very sanitary.

Border Collie Puppies with Beth
Dinah x Colt puppies in the play pen at 3 1/2 wks. (With Beth)
All are grown dogs now!

Above is another version of my puppy play area.( Smooch x Lazer pups--all grown dogs now!) They are 4 1/2 weeks old in this photo.
Between 4-5 weeks of age they use a potty box for eliminating. They go to it on their own! It has shredded newspaper in it.
The benefits of the potty box is tremendous. It makes clean up a breeze for me and the pups
learn to keep their play and sleep areas separate from potty places. This helps house train them
and keeps the puppies clean. When the puppies are larger, I will replace the wooden frame with
a plastic "under the bed" storage box. It needs to be low enough for the pups to hop into it.

It is amazing to watch a 5 week old puppy in mid-play stop and run to the litter box!

This is a Smooch x Lazer puppy named Zing! ownned by Mary Rimmer. In this clip Zing! was 7 weeks old.
Here is another example!
CLICK for video clip!

New owners can continue this method and it makes house training a breeze. Just change the litter box to a plastic box and move the box closer to the door to outside. The biggest problem when house training a puppy is not knowing exactly when the puppy has to go potty (it seems like ALL THE TIME). With the litter box method, the puppy goes to it, so you can gently pick it up and take it to the door and say, "Wanta go out?" You then click and treat when the puppy eliminates outside! No problem at all. The new owners could take this one step further and have a "designated potty area" outside. Wouldn't it be nice not to have to hunt for those "tootsie rolls"?

As the puppies grow, they can "hold it" longer, so we increase the time they are in their crates. By the time they are 6 weeks old, they are being fed meals in their individual crates. They are totally crate trained by 8-9 weeks.

Starting at 4 weeks, the puppies are given rides in a vehicle and also in our "Puppy wagon". This early exposure to movement prevents them from getting carsick later when they go to their new homes. The puppies that fly to their new homes are rarely stressed when they arrive. This is because all the noise isn't new to them! I place a rawhide in the crate when they fly and usually it is chewed on. Puppies that are stressed, don't chew on rawhide. Generally Lock-Eye puppies come out of the crate a licking and a wagging! We have shipped puppies to Switzerland, Canada, Denmark, Korea, France, Mexico, Columbia, Italy and Brazil. Even with these extremely long flights, they have faired well and are frisky and friendly with their new families!

We take our young puppies to the local nursing home and sometimes to Cooksen Hills Christian Ministries. The latter is a Children's home.We have the neighbor boys come play with each litter at least 3 times. They all love to play with puppies! This early socialization with children sets a positive tone for the puppies relationship with "little people".

The health of our puppies is very important to us. Having worked at a Veterinary Clinic as a Veterinary Assistant for 7 years was valuable in teaching me how to provide the best of care for my dogs.

Our puppies start out eating a gruel of Taste Of The Wild dog food and goats milk.
( ) As they develop teeth, we add dry kibble We send a sample of the "flavor" we are feeding our pups. There are several types. Bison and Venison, Waterfowl and Salmon. New owners can feed this food or switch gradually to a quality food of their choice. NOTE: You will need to switch to ADULT dog food at the age of 4 months old--or large breed puppy food to prevent the puppy from growing to fast.
Taste of the wild has no grain and is also formulated for all life stages.

At 3, 4, 5 & 6 weeks old our puppies are wormed with Drontal suspension. It is very safe for the puppies. Worming the puppies at 3 weeks old is critical. Even if the dam is worm-free, worm larvae is encysted in the dam and they are passed through to the puppies via the placenta. (encysted worms can't be killed by giving the dam worm medicine) If the puppies aren't wormed at this age, there is a very real danger of the puppies having seizures from the worm larvae migrating to the brain. At 6 weeks old or before if needed, we give the pups a dose of Baycox (Toltrazurl) to treat for Coccidiosis, which is very comon in puppies. At 8 weeks old we worm with Paratak plus, which gets all types of worms. We get these medications from Vet-N-Pet in Austrailia. Shipping to the US is fast (7-8 days) and is not expensive. Also, you can get Heart worm prevention without a prescription. Another excellent place to order medications is:

We give the puppies their first vaccinations at 5 weeks old. The first shot is Parvo only. Neo-Par.
(Neo Par is the safest and most effective parvo vaccine for puppies. It is a modified live vaccine containing a high antigenic mass of a highly immunogenic strain of canine parvo. Neo Par overrides moderate to high antibody levels such as maternal antibodies or from pre-existing vaccination. High levels of IgM and IgG antibodies are generated in puppies. Safe in puppies 3 weeks of age or older.)
At 8 weeks old we give Intervet's Progard-5 (Canine Distemper-Adenovirus Type 2-Paraninfluenza-Parvovirus Vaccine.
It claims to protect against the newest strain of parvo, Variant C (CPV type 2c) Here is an article on it's discovery:
(Copy and paste to your web browser if the link doesn't work.)

The puppies go to their new homes between 8 and 9 weeks old with a health/shot record.
The next shots are due between 11
weeks, with follow ups at 14 and 17 weeks old. Give Rabies when your vet recommends.
Please write it on your calendar! It's critical to either get the proper shots or have your vet do an immunity titer to determine your puppie's immunity status. The vet will also worm the puppy and it is common for the puppy to pass dead worms.
In addition to providing the best possible environment and stimulus for the puppies first 8-9 weeks, we continue to be available for any questions the new owner might have regarding training the puppy and/or problems that might arise. (Please call for help as it is an easier way to communicate!) This is just as important to us as breeding and raising our puppies. 918 723-3052.

Click here to e-mail Lock-eye Border Collies Questions or Comments about the pups??
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Note: My Email may or may not reach me. Feel free to call me at: 918 723-3052 (text also, but give your email address in the text) Michelle Weese

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