Lock-Eye Border Collies Information page

FREE E-BOOKs to Download!

Deposit/Waiting list procedure

Puppy picking process

Photos and videos of the early growth stages.

Where will your pup live?

Puppy proofing your home

Food you will need for your puppy

Misc items you will need

Books, videos and online articles

Shipping or picking up your pup

First days home-do's and don'ts.

House training and Potty boxes

Crate training

Clicker training

Clicker Trainers in the US & international

Teething

Bonding with your pup with other dogs in the household

Taking your pup out in public before all its shots are complete

Vaccinations/worming/Heartworm and Flea & Tick medicine.

Fear periods

Jumping on people

Play biting & teaching your puppy (or adult dog) to take treats gently.

R-E-S-P-E-C-T and how to get it from your dog!

Pups and children

Trimming Nails

Bathing

Riding in cars/trucks

EARS-how do you like 'em?

Free Demo DVD's

Herding Training DVD's for sale

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Deposit/Waiting list procedure

We have a Deposit/Waiting list for pups. To get on the Deposit/Waiting list, you will need to fill out one of the puppy
contracts and mail it with a deposit, or you can send a deposit with Paypal now!
Call first to get current paypal payment email address!!

 


Click on button above to view and fill out a puppy contract. I must have a copy of the contract
to put you on the deposit list.

I have developed a deposit system that is completely fair to all on the list. When a person sends in a deposit, they are put on the list by the date the
deposit was received, along with their preferences for their puppy. Some people send in their deposits a year or two
before they are wanting a puppy. Those people are listed in yellow. Active deposit list people are listed in black.
Here is an example:

1) Jane D. (9-20-06) (CA) (San Diego Airport) Male, Red & white, Smooth coated. Traditional markings, likes prick ears.
Agility, Herding, High drive, 9 level.

2) John J. (9-21-06) (FL) (Orlando Airport.) Female, Black Tri only, Rough coated only. Prefer mostly black with
tipped ears. Active Pet home. 4 drive level.

If you have any questions about the deposit list, feel free to call or email me. lockeye@hughes.net
Home & Cell) 918 723-3052

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Puppy picking process

Even though everyone usually has a favorite pup or two in a litter based on looks alone, I advise folks to keep an open
mind about all of the pups until we learn everyone's personality and drive level.

At 7 weeks old, I call the first active person on the deposit list. I don't pick the puppy for the person, but I do make
recommendations as to which pups match the qualities they have on the deposit list. Also, which pups who won't fit
with their lifestyle. (Example is a high drive, dominant pup in a pet home with small children.)
After the first person and I talk,I give them a day to decide and then go on to the next person on the list. Pups are shipped
or picked up at 9 weeks old, so there is plenty of time for each person to pick their pup. As people make their choices, I
make the updates to the deposit list for everyone to see. After you have picked your pup, you will need to send the balance
for your pup, including shipping, so we have that out of the way and don't have to worry about payment not arriving
before the pup is due to leave.

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Photos and videos of the early growth stages.

I take pics of the pups usually at one day old and then post them on the puppy page.
If you would like to see newborn, (Still wet) pics of a litter
, follow me on FB Face Book Page!

As the pups grow, I will take new pics and post to the puppy page.
Also, subscribe to my youtube account! Go to www.youtube.com/lockeye2nd (Click on Videos and More to view all of the clips posted)
Between birth and 3 weeks, pups only eat, sleep and potty. They do crawl around some, but no real personality is there.
At 3 & 1/2 weeks old, the pups start to come alive! Their activities changes to include playing,wrestling and barking!
We take clips of the pup's clicker training and also playing to help folks select their pups.

A day or two before the pups are 5 weeks old, I "Charge the clicker" by clicking the clicker and giving a small piece of
food to the pup. This connects the sound of the clicker to the food in the pup's mind. After the clicker is charged, the
training begins. Some of these training sessions will be filmed too.

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Where will your pup live? & How will you contain your pup safely?

Do you have a fenced in yard? If you do not, seriously reconsider getting a Border Collie!!

Before your pup arrives you need to decide where your pup will live. An important point to take into consideration is
your work schedule. It is not fair or healthy to keep an 8 week old puppy in a crate for 8-10 hours a day. There are
other ways to keep your house in one piece while you are away and the puppy from developing a urinary tract infection
from "holding it" for too many hours. This frequently happens in young females.
You still need to put your pup in a crate every day for a few hours of nap or feeding time, so that the pups remains
accustomed to it.
There are several good options for where to put your pup during the day if you work. Even if you don't work and are
home during the day with your pup, you will need to a place to put it when you aren't going to take it with you, or you
know you won't be able to watch it. If you don't have an X-pen, buy two of them. Buy a tall one and a top is a good idea.
Some pups are so clever that they quickly learn how to climb out. A second, shorter X-pen that you can step over is handy
also. I use this type of pen to section off areas where the pup and I are playing, or where I am working on the computer,
so that the pup doesn't go around the corner and potty. Most accidents happen because the owners are not watching
what the pup is doing! Pups give clear signals that they have to go to the bathroom, but if you can't see the pup, you
won't know! (See House training and potty boxes) Normally, a pup won't climb out of it when you are in the area with it.
If it does, you can use the opportunity to teach the pup about boundaries. Simply growl at the pup when it begins to climb and if it stops,say "GOOD PUPPY" and then toss a ball or a toy for it to play with. If it doesn't stop, Growl at the pup and walk over and take it off the fence when it's climbing, and then give it a toy or chew bone to keep it occupied.

ppp
pppppppppppppppppppppppppppWhy you might need a top! Pictured is Opal from the Dinah x Colt litter

Above left is an example of where my puppy is when I'm at the computer. Notice there are no wires that the pup can
chew! Tawny was trained to use the potty box (As all my pups are) that you see in the foreground of the photo. I always
put the potty box at the furthest end of the playpen area. The reason is because the pup will go as far away from you
(and it's bed) to relieve itself. If I were to put the potty box where you see the dog bed, more than likely, the pup will not
use it. It would go to the far end of the pen and tinkle. Also, when the pup is in the pen with me, by 9 weeks old, the pup
rarely poops in the box. Pups have to urinate more often than they have to poop and also, they have more control over
their bowels. They will normally make more of a fuss and whine when they have to poop and you can simply pick the
pup up, take it to the door, put it down for just a second by the door and say "Want to go outside?" and then open the
door. Go outside with the pup and when it potties, praise it like it picked the winning lottery ticket!

Indoor tall X-Pen for pup.
----
When you leave the house, when you can't watch the pup, or at night, you can put your pup in an X-pen to keep it
safe. This also helps in preventing the pup from chewing unacceptable items in your house, such as your shoes and the
furniture. Pups don't come out knowing what they can and can't chew on. It's up to us humans to teach them, but so
many times we forget that step in a pup's education.
-99-- Under the X-Pen you can put a vinyl floor remnant. Make sure it's wider than your X-pen. Inside the X-Pen, you can
put a potty box, so that the pup can relieve itself when you are away for long periods of time. When you put shredded
newspaper in the box, make sure you shred it going with the grain of the paper so that it comes out in long strips. When
you clean out the potty box, leave some of the scent behind. Some people have told me how they scrubbed out their pup's
potty box with bleach and the pup wouldn't go near it again. They don't like the strong smell and you don't want to repel
the pup from the box!
-99-- Other items to put in the X-Pen include a few toys for the pup. I like to give my pups Pig skin twists. They last a long
time. You can put a small dog bed or towel down for the pup to lay on. You can buy a flat sided water pail at Petco or
Petsmart to clip it on the X-pen for water. It's not a good idea to feed the pup in the X-Pen. You want to save that for
training time or the crate.

Outdoor pen or fenced in yard.
-----
It's a good idea to have an outdoor pen to put your pup in when it gets older or for when you need a safe place to
put it when you take it out to potty and can't stay with it.
Your pup SHOULD NOT spend most of it's day outside in a pen isolated from its humans, but there are times when you
will need it for safety reasons. If you don't have a fenced in yard and you are in a hurry, sooner or later you might think
you could just let the pup outside by itself to potty. Please don't do that. Many a pup has been killed by owners who did
this. A car drives up and pup greets it = dead pup. Or another family member doesn't know the pup is under the car and
drives away = dead pup. Or the pup finds horses or other livestock in the pasture and gets kicked or stepped on = dead pup.
Or, pup wanders off and gets "Stolen" but in reality someone just picked up a stray pup by the road. These are just some
of the phone calls I have gotten over the years. Always followed by: "but the pup never did that before..." You should
always know where your pup is in the house even after it's house trained-and teach it not to go out an open door unless
invited. Why? The same reasons as I wrote about above! An unattended dog is at risk of injury or death. You have to be
as careful about the pup's safety as you would with a year old toddler. If you can't stay outside with the pup, simply put it
in the pen. Make sure you have a dog house, chew toys and water and that the pup can't get it's head caught in the fence
or dig or climb out. Another important consideration are weather conditions, specifically heat and cold. If it's too hot or
too cold, your pup could die from exposure. Even with shade or a dog house, a pup can't handle the extremes for very long.

A secure fenced in yard is fine, but there are "Border Collie Things" that you need to be aware of that can be dangerous
or just allow bad habits to develop if the Border Collie pup is given the free run of the yard before their"life habits" are
established.
Questions to ask yourself about the fenced in yard:
1) Vehicle Traffic. Will there be cars needing in and out of the yard? If so, you could possibly fence off the back part of
the yard for safety reason.
2) Are moving cars visible to the pup from the fence? If they are, as soon as the pup becomes "Keen to work"-- meaning
the herding instinct has turned on, the pup could start to run the fence line in an attempt to herd them. This is a
TERRIBLE habit and almost impossible to break. Plus, if you will be wanting to herd actual livestock with your pup
after it's grown, it may never want to herd anything without wheels. Another reason it's such a dangerous habit, is that
if the pup gets out, it WILL herd the cars on the outside of the fence and get run over.
3) Other dogs and fence fighting/fence running/herding other dogs from inside the fence. If there are dogs on the other
side of the fence, your pup could start herding/fence running from inside the fence, or even fighting with the other dog(s).
It might also simply develop a habit of barking all the time out of frustration. If your pup spends too much time at the
fence with the other dog, a stronger bond could develop with it instead of you!

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House training and Potty boxes

Pups give clear signals that they need to go to the bathroom. The signals vary with each pup and are somewhat different with peeing or pooping, but usually, they sniff quickly, whine, circle, raise their tail with a slight curve at the base. They won't do ALL of those behaviors before they eliminate, usually just a few. The most important thing is to go with your pup outside and watch him or her and their "potty routine." OBSERVE! That way you are familiar with it and can avoid indoor accidents.When a pup has to urinate, sometimes it gives no indications-- because the pup itself was taken by surprise. This usually happens when you are playing with the pup and it is distracted from it's own internal signals. This is one of the reasons a potty box is a lifesaver! You can play tug, fetch and wrestle with your pup and if there is a potty box in the area with you, then the pup can hop right in and no one yells at it. Since you know what the pup is going to do when it hops into the potty box, you can say "Hurry up!" or the command you have picked to mean potty.
Also note that the pup normally has to tinkle as soon as it drinks water and needs to poop not long after it eats. (For a very young pup within a FEW MINUTES of eating!)

"Peck" (Lock-Eye Peck on the Cheek)

Most people correct their pup if they catch it in the act of going to the bathroom in the house. This is, in reality, the wrong thing to do! If your pup is afraid to potty in front of you, (because you corrected it.) when you take it outside where you want it to go, he or she is not likely to continue going to the bathroom. So, you bring the pup back inside thinking that it didn't have to go and the pup finds a place to potty where you can't see it, (and yell at it again). That is the beginning of an unwanted cycle! If you catch the pup going to the bathroom, quietly go to it, pick it up and carry it outside. If the pup doesn't resume tinkling or pooping, then bring it back in the house and put it in the crate with some food and water. Leave it for 15 minutes and take it back outside. With the added food and water in its system, your pup probably will potty and then you can praise it!

Important points about house training:

1) Take your pup to the same area every time you take it outside. The scent of where it went before will stimulate it to go.

2) Give what he or she is doing a name! I use "Hurry Up" Whatever you say, stay consistent. Give the pup the Cue to go right before you know it's going to potty.This will help connect the two.Don't talk to the pup when it's actually eliminating, because this distracts the pup and it will stop before it's finished to play. Just like a kid!

3) The instant the pup is done (as it's rising back up) PRAISE the pup, whip out a favorite toy and have a POTTY PARTY!!! Don't let the pup see the toy before it potties, because it will focus on playing and not it's "business."

4) Puppies sometimes have to potty more than once in an outing. Give it plenty of time to go a few times.

5) REMEMBER- If you take your puppy out and it doesn't potty, it does not mean that it does not need to go!
Pups get distracted easily. If it does not go, bring it back inside to its crate for a while. Otherwise, your pup is like a monkey with a handgun--you don't know when that thing is going to go off!

6) Do not free feed your puppy! (meaning don't leave a bowl of food out all the time.) If you feed the pup at specific times, it will poop at specific times. If you free feed, then it will be pooping all day long. Always give the pup access to water though.

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Puppy-proofing your home

If you ask yourself what a pup can get into, the answer is EVERYTHING!!! How much of your house you want to "Puppy Proof" depends on how much freedom you are going to allow the pup. For the first six months, it is a good idea to limit the pup to the room you are in at that moment. My general rule is if I can't see the pup, the area is too large!
I use my short X-Pen to keep the pup within the area I'm in. It is lightweight enough that I can easily move it to other areas of the house when needed. In the different sections of your house where you will be with your pup, pick up shoes, socks, power cords and anything else that you don't want the pup to get its mouth on.

In addition to puppy-proofing your home, you will need to teach the pup what it can and can't play with and chew on.
A good way to do this is to make it a clicker game. (See Clicker Training) Put out a toy and a shoe. Have the two items several feet apart.When your pup goes to the toy, click and treat the pup above the toy. When you are training an animal, where you deliver the treat at does make an impression on it. They gravitate to where you feed!
If the pup goes to the shoe,don't click or treat, simply walk over to the toy and stand until the pup goes near the toy again.
If your pup tries to pick up the shoe, place your foot onto the shoe and hold it in place, taking away some of the fun of the taboo item. Removing the shoe strings before you start will help it not become a tug toy. Face away from the shoe and towards the toy. Do not speak to or correct the puppy in any way. Remember, this is a clicker training game.

You can add another toy that the pup is allowed to play with to the training area, but don't add another shoe or other "taboo" item until the pup has zero interest in the shoe.
Make sure you have the BEST treats available for this game! You will be competing with a stinky ole shoe! Every pups favorite thing. :-D
You will want to use a shoe that isn't one you are going to stress over if the pup mouths it some.

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Food you will need for your puppy

I feed my pups Taste of the Wild Bison/Venison. It is for all life stages. You can click on this link to find where you can purchase it in your area. Just click on the store locator tab. http://www.tasteofthewildpetfood.com
NOTE: I do not feed the puppy formula of taste of the wild. It is too rich for the pups and causes loose stools.

For training treats, I use Chicken cut up into small pieces. Liver is great also.
I buy boneless chicken breasts (frozen is cheaper) and pop it in the microwave frozen for 10 minutes for 5 breasts
3 minutes or so for less. Then I cut it up AFTER it has cooled in the fridge. .

A good web site about dog food nutrition is: http://www.dogfoodproject.com

** It is important that if your Border Collie is being fed puppy food, that it is switched to adult food
or large breed puppy at 4 months of age. Taste of the Wild is for all life stages. You can switch off with their variety of
flavors, like Buffalo, Waterfowl, etc.
Start them off with Salmon though,as that is what I currently feed. I will send a quart size bag of the food with your pup.
Border Collies can grow fast and their bones can't keep up with their growth if they get too much of the
wrong kind of protein.

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Misc items you will need:

Crate-If your pup is being shipped, the crate is yours to keep. Your pup will be able to fit in it until it is 4-5 months old.
You can always buy or use a larger one if you have it. I crate train all my pups starting at 5 weeks old, so it should not potty in even a 500 P size Vari Kennel by the time you get your pup at 9 weeks old.

Collars and Leashes- When I ship a pup, I put a collar on the handle of the crate. (So that if the airlines need to walk the pup, they have one.) This collar will fit your pup for a few months. You will need a 6-8 foot leash and a long lightweight line.

ID Tag for your pup's collar.

Food and water bowls

Toys! Tug toys, balls, squeaky toys, items that the pup chew, such as Pig Skin Twists. Toys to keep them busy, like a Kong stuffed with good tasting items, or an Everlasting Treat Ball, etc.
A good place to get toys for cheap is a Salvation Army, Good Will or other "Thrift shop." Of course, there are always yard sales too! Make sure you remove the eye buttons from any kids toys you buy. (Choking danger.) Stay away from beanie babies. If they rip them open, they might eat the insides or just make a mess!

Dremel and/or Nail clippers
VIDEO CLIP of a pup having its nails done with a dremel.

Heartworm prevention. I recommend starting your pup on Interceptor as soon as possible.
If your pup has been given a pill already, it will be listed on your shot record with the date given.

Frontline or Advantix. If your pup has had one of these flea/tick prevention products applied already,
it will be listed on your shot record with the date given.

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Shipping via airplane or picking up your pup

**NEW** Personal delivery via plane. Your pup would ride in cabin with my training assitant and you would pick your pup up at the exit to TSA Security when my assistant arrives with your pup.
There is an extra charge for this. $100 for her day of flying to deliver and the airplane ticket for both human and pup. If purchased 2 weeks out, the total cost of delivery is only $100-$200 more than the usual $400 shipping charges. Since there is only one person delivering, there is a limited amount of days available for personal delivery of pups, but it is an option.
IF you have frequent flier miles built up, you can simply use those to pay for the flights and charges would only be $100 for delivery, $25 for health certificate and $50 for microchip!

Shipping via airplane:

My pups are prepared mentally and physically to ride in a car and they fly very well. Humans tend to be afraid of flying
and so they think the pup will be, but in fact, the lull of the engines puts the pup right to sleep. Just like a baby in a car
seat. I know because I have delivered (flown with) two pups that rode in the cabin and one of them was even asleep on
its back with its feet in the air inside the sherpa bag.

I ship pups all year round with American Airlines and Continental Airlines. Continental Airlines has a pet safe
program for shipping in hot or cold temps.

Between 7 and 9 weeks old, if you are having your pup shipped to you, I will make all the flight arrangements.
If you want to take a peak at the possible flights your pup will be on, go to www.aa.com and click on "Schedules"
Origin City: Fayetteville, AR (XNA) to Destination City (Your nearest airport) and click "SEARCH"
This will bring up the flight schedule.
You can also track your pup after it leaves here using the Air Way Bill number that I give you when the pup leaves XNA.
AACARGO.COM
If there are days you can't pick up your pup at the airport, please let me know. Normally they arrive in the early to
mid afternoon. In the winter I may ship a few hour later when it's warmer, in the summer, earlier because it's cooler.

I have shipped pups for 25 years now and there have only been a handful of problems. Once a pup was delayed in
Salt Lake City because of an ice storm, but they have on site kennels there, so it was only a delay. Most of the problems
have been weather related and all were solvable.

Before you go the airport to pick up your pup, call them and ask for directions to where you will pick up live animals.
Sometimes it is in a separate building (Cargo) from the regular airport. Other places you will possibly pick up your pup
is at the ticket counter or the baggage claim area. That is why it's important to call them a few days before your pup is
to fly to you!

TAKE to the airport: a long leash, a short leash, water and a bowl, your clicker and some either Natural balance food
cut up in small pieces or some thawed Bil-jac dog food in a plastic bag. Also, you will need a pocket knife or nail clipers for the zip ties
on the kennel door!
If you know you are going to an airport without any natural grass for the pup to potty, then take a potty box with
shredded newspaper.
Your pup will have to potty when it arrives, so DO NOT let it out of the crate inside the airport! Take it outside to some
grass if you can find it. The long leash is useful for a pup who doesn't want to potty right at your feet. Make sure the
collar is tight enough so that it can't slip over the pup's head.
When you pick up your pup, point the "faucet" away from you. Pups that are very excited and have been crated for a while tend to tinkle on you!
If there is no grass, go to your car and set the potty box down in front of your pup. Make sure the pup is on a leash!
Don't get the clicker and treats out until the pup has gone to the bathroom. Otherwise, your pup will be in "training
mode" and not "potty mode." As soon as your pup goes, you can get out your clicker and treats and walk away from
your pup. When the pup follows you, click and give it a piece of the food. You can repeat this and when you see that the
pup is running to you as soon as you step away, add the cue Come just before you walk away,then click and treat as
soon as the pup catches you! This will help create a bond with your pup fast! Some people have the mistaken idea that
they shouldn't do any training with the pup for a few days. Your pup arrives already Clicker trained to Come, Sit, Down,
Wave, and to walk on a leash. Clicker training is a very positive method of training, so your pup LOVES IT and if the
new person in the pup's life starts out using one, it helps start the bond with it's human! Don't be afraid you are going to
do it wrong. Just walk away and then click and treat when your pup gets to you.

Picking up your puppy in person:

If you live close enough to drive here to pick up your pup, we welcome you to visit and see your pup's parents and other
ancestors.
I can also meet folks in one of several cities. These include Fayetteville, AR, Salisaw, OK, or Tulsa, OK.
(No charge for this service)

If you live very far away, I don't recommend driving to pick up your pup. When flying your pup to you, it's in
the crate maybe 6 hours tops. If you drive 10 or 20 hours to pick up your pup, it will end up spending way to much time in
a crate on the way back to your home and it's more stressful on the pup in that situation.
You could fly into XNA (Fayetteville, AR) airport and I can meet you there. or you can rent a car and drive out to our farm(45 minutes away) and then take your pup back with you IN CABIN in a Sherpa bag. (Soft sided crate) You must make arrangements with the airport
and pay an extra fee of usually under $100 for the pup traveling with you. Most airlines only allow one or two animals
in cabin, so it's important to reserve your pup's spot early.
If you want to fly in and not come out for a visit, (perhaps you have already been here) I can drive to the airport with
your pup and meet your plane so you don't have to rent a car.

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First few days home-do's and don'ts.

Do: Have your X-Pen set up before you leave to get your pup.
Do: Start Clicker training your pup the first day home.
Do: Establish a routine for you pup right from the start.
Do: Put your pup in its crate for a few hours each day.
Do: Keep the pup safe from adult dogs in the house that my harm it.

Don't: Take your pup to the vet until the next shots are due. (The date will be on your shot record.) Your pup will have
been examined by my vet and given a health certificate a few days before shipping (or picking up). Any change of
environment can be stressful on a puppy and if you take your pup into the vet when you first get it, it could be exposed
to parvo, kennel cough or any number of sick dogs that are possibly at the vet at a time when its immunity might not be
100%. Of course, if your pup is showing some sign of not feeling good, please call me and we can decide if it needs to go
to the vet.

Don't: Invite everyone over the first day or two to see your new pup. A young pup needs lots of rest and if you don't allow
it to nap when it's tired, it could become stressed and sick.

Don't: Allow young children to overwhelm the pup. Have the children sit down and always be supervised around the pup.

Don't: Take your pup to Petsmart or Petco or any other place where there are dogs who may not be vaccinated.
Puppy classes are fine, since they require proof of vaccinations.

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Crate training

I crate train all my pups starting at 5-6 weeks old for short periods of time, gradually increasing the time as they have more
control of their bodily functions. They are placed in the crate with food to help with the training. At first they all holler
and you will be glad that I got them used to being in one, so you don't have to wear ear plugs!
By the time you get your pup at 9 weeks old, it will have been used to being in the crate for about 3 hours max.
The formula for crate length stay is add one hour to the months old the pups are. ie, three month old pup can be 4 hours.
I put them in their individual crates around 5:00 PM to feed them their supper.
Usually after they eat, they are thirsty, so it is a good idea to have a spill proof bowl or a rabbit waterer on the door
for the pup. I let them out to potty 30 minutes later.They are then put back into the crates for 2- 4 hours.
When you get your pup home, it is important to continue putting the pup into a crate each day for a few hours each day.
When the pup is tired and needs a nap or when you feed it are excellent times. Because your pup is getting used to his/her
new lifestyle, it may cry in the crate at your house when it didn't here. One possible reason is that maybe your pup can
see you and wants to be out of the crate with you. Don't let it out when it cries. If you do, you will be teaching the pup
it gets let out of the crate when it cries and it will cry harder the next time. Instead, put a towel or sheet over the crate
until it is quiet. Then remove the sheet, but keep the pup in the crate. If the pup is awake, you could put a few treats or
a chew toy through the slats of the crate.
Another way to get your pup to be quiet, or just to save you from having to listen to it cry, is to put the crate in a separate
room with the radio on. This is what I do when I have a whole litter in individual crates.
Crates come in handy for 100's of reasons. After you bathe your pup, put it in there to dry with some warm towels and
a chew toy.
Feed your pup in it's crate.
One of the most important reasons I crate train, is that it teaches the pup to "Hold it." They have to learn control over
their functions. If never crated, pups are much harder to house train.

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Clicker training (You can buy a clicker at Petsmart/Petco or go to www.sitstay.com or www.cleanrun.com )

Think back to when you learned about Pavlov's experiment with "Ring the bell, feed the dog." He did this over and over until
when the dog heard the bell, it salivated in anticipation of the food. Clicker training takes this a step further--the dog has to offer
a behavior in order to get you to click the clicker and give it a reward. The sound of the click becomes very powerful! You'll
discover that your dog will almost stand on its head to get you to make that sound! Kids can easily learn to use this method.
A clicker is a small plastic and metal box that you hold in your hand and when you press the metal part, it makes a "Clicking"
sound. The first step is to simply "Click" and give a tiny piece of food. It is critical that the pup or dog is hungry before you train.|
Have a favorite treat or treats for the training, not just dry kibble! The more yummy, the better the result. Try cut up pieces of
chicken or beef. This step is called "Charging the clicker." The clicker is fully charged when you "click" and the dog snaps its
head around expecting the reward. This reaction usually happens during the first training session. When you have reached that
stage in training, your dog is ready to be clicker trained! At this stage, wait until the pup does something that you want to teach it.
(Coming to you, sitting, lying down, or any other number of cute tricks.) Pick one behavior and after the pup learns exactly what it
is, then add the words that "cue" the pup to do the action. That is an important point in clicker training--you add the
word/cue/command AFTER the behavior is "formed" the way you want it. As an example; when teaching the pup the cue word
for down. If you have clicked for the pup laying down with it's body only part way on the floor and add the cue at that point, the
pup will think that Down means to lay part way down! In order to give the pup a clear understanding of what you want it to do,
wait until the behavior is exactly the way you want it BEFORE you NAME the behavior! When the pup is giving you the behavior
you want consistently, then to add the cue. You will say the word just before it (The behavior) happens and then Click and Treat!
Within a short period of time, the pup will perform that behavior when it hears the word. Be sure and say the same word each time.
Don't say "Down" one time and "Lie down" the next.
Why does clicker training work so well? Why not just push the dog in a down position and then give a treat? What is so special
about the clicking? One reason it works so great is that there is nothing like the sound of the click in a dog's environment.
Because of this, it is easy to attach a special meaning to the click. That meaning is: YOU DID THAT RIGHT! YEAH!!!
Praise doesn't have the same impact because most people give their dogs praise when the dog hasn't, in fact, done anything.
Clicker training is an extremely positive method of training and has some wonderful "side effects." Your dog will pay attention to
you because it wants to, not because you make it. Your dog will start to "offer behaviors" in order to get you to click and treat.
Remember the most important rule in clicker training: If you Click, you MUST treat! (Even if you clicked at the wrong instant.)
Don't worry too much if you make a mistake and click at the wrong moment, just try harder. You dog will forgive you!
Be happy when you train! Don't stare directly at the dog when you are training. If you are wanting to teach your dog to lay
down, stare at the floor, if you are wanting to teach your dog to ring a bell, look at the bell. Dogs quickly learn to follow your gaze.
Ask me questions! Here are some video examples of clicker training.

Click here to see video clips!
Click for Video clips!

The pics below illustrate an excellent way to have your pup interact with children.
Click on each photo to watch the video clips of Round Robin Recalls!

Click on this  photo to  view video clip number 1pppClick to view 2nd video

Clicker Trainers in the US and international

http://www.clickertrainusa.com/trainerindex.htm

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Teething

Just like an infant who is teething, cool chew toys are soothing to a pup's gums who have emerging teeth.
You can buy toys at Petco or Petsmart that you can soak in water (Or diluted beef/chicken broth) and freeze
to give to your pup.


In addition to giving cold chew toys, a pup needs a variety of textures to satisfy the teething urges.
Some of these are toys that we would not usually think they would like, but they really DO help ease the pain of teething.
For instance, toys that have a prickly feel help massage the gums. Also, my pups like Pig skin twists.
I buy these at Wal-mart.

*Also see Puppy proofing your home.

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Books, videos and online articles (I will be adding more to this list.)

There are tons of books, videos and online articles on dog behavior and training.
Here are just a few.

FREE E-BOOK to Download!!! THIS IS A MUST READ!!!!

Click on photo to download book!

Entire Book w/ Images (29.2 MB)

Text-only (566 KB)

Books/booklets:

Susan Garrett's Shaping Success (*A MUST HAVE!*)

Karen Pryor's Don't shoot the dog

Positive Puppy Training Works by Joel Walton

Raising a Behaviorally Healthy Puppy by Suzanne Hetts, Ph.D.

Pat Miller: A Puppy Primer, 73pp…$5.00 each www.peaceablepaws.com

Patricia McConnell: Puppy Primer $11.95 http://www.dogwise.com/itemdetails.cfm?ID=DTB599

Online articles

Beverly Hebert- Holly's Den, Sugar Land, TX (Excellent articles on training and aggression.)

Susan Garret's online articles:
HOW TO CREATE A MOTIVATING TOY

DEPOSITS INTO THE PERFECT RECALL ACCOUNT

DISTRACTIONS FOR YOUR RECALL

LIST OF REINFORCERS

SAY YES TRAINING REMINDERS

Clicker Train USA - clicker training for all

TEACHING YOUR DOG TO STAY WITH A CLICKER

 

Videos


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Bonding with your pup with other dogs in the household

If you have other dogs in the house, you will need to keep your pup separate from these dog 90 % of the time
until the pup reaches 4 months of age. You can use the short X-pen for this as well as put the adult dogs in a different
room when you are training or playing with your pup. Take your pup for long walks- just you and him or her.
What you want to do is create a strong bond with your pup. You will be glad you took the extra time & effort.
If you get your pup at 9 weeks old, you will only need to do this for 7 weeks.
If you allow your pup to have total access to the other dogs in your house you will find that your pup forms a stronger
bond with the other canines.
Also, your other dog may bite the pup or hurt it accidently playing to rough. Gradually give your pup more and more
time to play with the other dogs in your family. Supervised only until you are sure they all get along.
6 month of age usually.

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Taking your pup out in public before all its shots are complete

I feel that the benefits of socializing a young pup outweigh the risks of taking the pup out in public before the
recommended series of shots are complete. Your pup will have had two set of shots at 7 weeks old. I feel it is safe to
take your pup to areas where there are not usually dogs present after his/her 3rd set at 9 weeks old.
Hardware stores like Lowes and Home Depot allow dogs in my area.
Check with your local stores to see if they allow them in. If not, Nursing homes really love pups,but always ask first.
Make sure you take accident clean up supplies, a toy and some treats. If you are going to a a nursing home, take a
spotless pup with smooth trimmed nails.
Don't take your pup to Pet stores or dog parks until the shots are complete.
Puppy classes are fine!

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Vaccinations/worming/Heartworm and Flea & Tick medicine.

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Your pup will have been given a parvo shot at 5-6 weeks old. (Neo-par)
The 2nd shot I give is a combo Da2LP+ parvo (CPV) I give this either at 7 or 8 weeks old,depending on when I gave the first. (2 weeks later)
The next shots (and vet visit) is due 3 weeks after the 2nd shots. You will be given a shot record with dates of previous shots and dates the next ones are due.
Rabies should be given between 4 and 6 months of age.
The shots above are what is "standard" for pups. The reason that a series is given is that we do not know when a mothers
temporary immunity wears off and the pup starts to produce its own immunity from the shots we give it. If the mothers
immunity has not worn off, our shots won't work. There is a blood test that can be given by your vet to determine when
your pup's immunity is correct. They call this a "titer test." I require this if you do not intend to give the full series of
puppy shots. Don't gamble with your pup's health!
I worm my pups starting at 3 weeks and weekly until they are 8 weeks old.
When your worm your pup, it is normal to see a few dead ones in their stools if they had some round worms.
(Very common in pups and has nothing to do with the pup's environment.) Round worms look like spaghetti noodles.
If you see small live segments of worms in your pup's stool, then ask your vet for Tapeworm medicine.
Tapeworms come from fleas when the pup accidentally eats one. This is how their lifecycle begins.

You can start your pup on Interceptor Heart Worm prevention with it's next vet visit.
I use Frontline Spray, Frontline Topical and also Advantix topical on my dogs for Flea and Tick prevention.
I alternate as needed beteen these products to try to keep ticks off of everyone.
If your pup has had an application of one of the above, it will be noted on your shot record.
I give Capstar pills as needed to kill fleas.

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Fear periods

Sometime around 8 weeks old, a pup goes through what is called a "Fear Period." This is the first of several.
It's important that you do not coddle the pup when it startles at something during this or any time in a dog's life.
What is meant by "Coddling" a pup, is when the pup startles, you reach down and say "It's OK as you stroke it."
This teaches the pup that there was something to be afraid of and also you are rewarding his/her fear!
How you react to a dog's fear reaction will influence it. When a pup's hackles go up and it alarm barks at something,
say "Quiet" in a firm voice and act like there is nothing to be worried about. If your pup settles down, toss a toy are a
treat. If it is a person who your pup was afraid of, you can have that person toss a treat or a toy. See Also: RESPECT

Second Fear Period or Fear of New Situations period is somewhere between 6 to 14 Months. This is the fear period that
most people are "taken aback" by. Since it can occur anywhere within this age range, owners think their dog is suddenly
falling apart! Owners need to be fully committed to their dogs and not just want to "get rid of it" when the going gets a
little rough. These fear periods are natural stages that I believe in the wild canine helps to ensure the survival of the
younger members of the pack. When they start to hunt with the adults, if they are a bit tentative, they are less likely to
get killed. When your dog is afraid of something, don't react yourself. This is very hard for most people. Especially if
they are in public and they are worried that the dog will embarrass them. Have faith that this stage will pass.

This is a good web web that has an overview of the different stages a pup goes through.
http://www.doglistener.co.uk/puppies/criticalperiods.shtml

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Jumping on people

Your pup will learn what you teach it, but sometimes you teach it things as a pup that aren't fun in an adult dog.
Jumping up on people is a good example. Cute at 8 weeks, but not cute at 80 pounds! :-D
Have you ever wondered why a pup so readily jumps up on people? Yes, they are being friendly,but the source of the
behavior is nursing. Because I have watched so many litters of pups grow up, how they interact with their mom and
littermates has taught me many things. After the pups reach 4-5 week old, the mom no longer lays down to nurse
the pups. She stands up and if the pups want to suckle, then they jump up and put their front paws on her side to help
them keep their balance while they nurse.
When you reach down to pet a pup, wait until it sits before your stroke it. Even if you aren't a clicker trainer, if you
stand there until the pup sits and then pet it enough times, then the pup will start to learn not to jump.
Pushing the dog off of you or yelling down, down, down! doesn't teach the pup anything. Especially if you don't even
have the dog "lay down." Down is not the same as "off."
If you take your hands and shove the dog off of you, the pup likes the new wrestling game!
You can also turn your back to the pup if it's jumping on you. As soon as it stops, turn back around and pet it.

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Play biting & teaching your puppy (or adult dog) to take treats gently.

Pups naturally bite each other in play. When one of the pups bites too hard, the other pup yelps in pain. This causes
the biter to let go- if only for a second. Watch a litter of pups play if you have the opportunity.
On a very young pup (6-8 wks) I copy this behavior and as soon as the pup lets go, I say "Good" and give it a
tug or chew toy. It is VERY IMPORTANT that you do not pull your hand away when the pup is biting you. If you do,
it becomes a game to the pup and it will only try harder to attack your hand. Leave your hand in "The Shark's Mouth"
and Yelp like it WAS a shark! Praise as soon at the pup lets go!

As pups are being weaned by their mother, their teeth are very sharp and if they cause their mom pain, she will first
growl a warning to the offender. If the pup doesn't ease up with its teeth, then she will pin the pup to the ground
with her mouth to make it stop.
If your pup is over 8 weeks old and you have tried the yelping and re-directing it to a toy and it still bites you too hard,
you will need to growl at the pup. If the pup stops, praise and give it a toy. If the pup does not stop, take hold of the
pup's lower jaw gently and hold onto it. Don't squeeze! You just want the pup to think when it bites to hard, it looses
freedom. You might need to hold the pup's body still with your other hand also.
As soon as the pup relaxes it's teeth on you, praise and let go.

Taking treats gently:

When you offer a treat to your dog, it should take it without causing you pain.
If you actually give the treat after it has pinched, bit or knocked you down to get it, then you have rewarded that behavior.
Behavior that is rewarded will continue.
Start this re-conditioning with a piece of dry kibble in one hand and your clicker in the other. The dry food will be less appealing
and easier for the dog to succeed. Show the food to the dog in a way that it can't snatch it out of your hand. I "trap" the food with
my thumb and middle finger. Because this is only kibble, the dog may sniff your hand and not bite your fingers. If he/she is gentle,
then click and give the kibble. If your dog is not gentle, then yelp like you did when copying the puppy behavior explained above
and at the same instant, put the food hand behind your back! Wait for a few seconds and then repeat until the dog or pup will take
the kibble with manners. Be sure and click before you give the kibble.
After you have success with kibble, switch to a slightly more appealing treat and go up the ladder of doggie goodies until your
dog-shark is tamed!

Another method you can use is offer the treats in a small metal spoon. Hold the thumb on the spoon with your thumb. When the pup/dog bites down on the metal, it will instantly "ease up." The dog self corrects!

pp
pppppppppppppOUCH! pppppppppppppppppppppppppppppppppppppppppppppp Josie taking her treat gently.pGood Girl!

pppppppppppppppppppppppppppppppppppppLockEye Josefin (Style x Brick)


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R-E-S-P-E-C-T and how to get it from your dog!

Dogs are pack animals. Even though they are domesticated, they still retain many of the behaviors of their wild cousins.
If you watch your dog's behavior, you might see it try to bury a bone, roll in stinky stuff, howl, or even playbow.
If you have several dogs you might see one show its teeth in warning to a lower ranking pack member and you'll see the lower
ranked one grovel at the feet of the top dog and maybe even urinate in submission. This is all totally natural for them.

If you bring a pup into your home and start treating it like a human baby or perhaps even spoil it like you would never consider
with a human child, it sets the stage for, at worst, disaster and at best giving the dog away because you can't handle the pup as it
ages.

Dogs want and NEED you to be their leader. If you are not, then their world has no structure and behavioral problems evolve.

A good example of how an owner could cause a dog to have "issues" is how the owner reacts to a dog that startles at something
and alarm barks.

A leader will say "Quiet" in a firm/calm voice and act like there is nothing to be afraid of or alarm bark at. (Because there IS nothing
for the dog to be afraid of.) The correct human reaction gives the dog confidence in new situations. Do not yell at the dog, as this
will only cause the dog to be more anxious. If it continues to bark like a fool, then take it to a visual barrier for just a few seconds
until the barking stops and then step back out to whatever the dog is reacting to. A visual barrier could be behind a car, building or
even a tree. If there is no barrier, then turn the dog around facing away from the scary object or person. When the dog is quiet, turn
back around and continue on your walk.

A human who leans down and pets the dog to get it to be quiet when it is alarm barking or growling not only reinforces that
behavior, but it sends the message to the dog that they are afraid/anxious of the scary thing also.

...to be continued...

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Pups and children

I have my pups around kids when they are between 4 and 8 weeks old. If you want your pup to be kid friendly, you MUST
continue allowing your pup access to children. If you don't, kids become VERY SCARY for the pup around the time of the 2nd
fear period. These need to be both play and training sessions. Arrange for a variety of kids (different ages) to interact with your pup.
You have to ensure that the encounters are fun and not stressful for the pup. The best way to do this is through clicker training and
playing fetch.

The pics below illustrate an excellent way to have your pup interact with children.
Click on each photo to watch the video clips of Round Robin Recalls!

Click on this  photo to  view video clip number 1pppClick to view 2nd video

What to do if your pup is afraid of kids already.

...to be continued...

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Trimming Nails

I trim the nails of my pups with both human nail clippers (Nails are tiny at that age.) or a dremel grinder .
When you get your pup, you can continue with the dremel or use a regular nail trimmer.
It is important that you do the nails to keep your pup used to having it done!
Every two weeks is usually good. Have some treats and after you trim a nail, give a treat.
If your pup pulls back its foot, DO NOT LET GO!
If you let go, then you have taught your pup that it doesn't have to let you trim its nails.
Simply hold the paw or leg until the pup relaxes, give a treat and then go back to the trimming.

SEE VIDEO CLIP

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Bathing

Dogs need bathing when they are dirty, so you need to get them used to the process when they are young.
Tie them in the tub so that you have both hands free. If there is no place in your tub to tie your pup, you can buy a
suction cup with a tie ring that you can attach to your wall or tub.( http://www.dog.com )
Use shampoo that is labeled for dogs only. Human shampoo isn't made for a dog's fur's PH balance.
At some point during the bath, you can expect your dog to try to shake. Of course, this will get you totally wet.
You can sometimes abort the dog's efforts to shake by simply putting your hand on its head.
Have a small bowl of treats near the tub and after you have stopped your dog from shaking or it is standing still in the tub,
give it a treat. This helps make the bath time experience a good one.
After you are done with soaping and scrubbing, you will need to rinse until there is no trace of shampoo on the dog anywhere.
If you leave some on the dog, it can cause the dog to itch when it dries.
With my dogs, I close the shower curtain after I am done rinsing and encourage them with my voice to shake off. You can add the
word SHAKE and even click and treat the dog.
A few minutes before I am done with the bath, I put a few towels in my drier to warm up to dry my dog off with.

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Riding in cars/trucks

You will need to have a safe way to transport your dog.
A crate is an excellent way for everyone to "Arrive Alive!"
Use a seat belt or other means to secure the crate in your car.
Most people think it is ok for a dog to ride loose in their car, especially if they are well mannered and stay in their seat.
It's dangerous!What would happen if you were in a car accident? If you are hurt and you have to be taken the hospital, no one
will be concerned about your dog. If it is in a crate, the dog stands a better chance of not being thrown around and injured
plus, someone may just take your dog to a safe place until someone in your family can come get the dog.
If your dog is loose and you have an accident, more than likely, when that door is opened, the dog will bolt away in fear reaction to
what just happened. Another option is a doggie harness seat belt.
Always have a collar and an ID tag on your dog when you travel.


If your dog is in the back of your truck and you don't tie the crate down securely, the crate could flip over if you round a corner
to fast or if you are in an accident, it (The entire crate could fly out of the truck's bed and bust open.)
NEVER EVER allow the dog to ride loose in an open bed of your truck. I worked at a vet clinic for years and helped put together
many F.O.O.T. dogs. (Fell Out Of Truck) Don't take the risk with your dog's life.

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EARS-how do you like 'em?

Check out our EAR PAGE!

Border Collies can have a wide variety of ear sets, all of which are fine for them to have. Sometimes the human has
a personal preference, and they ask me how they can help the ears stand or tip. Basically it's like putting braces on a
child's teeth. You hold them into a certain place, until they start to grow like that. If you want prick ears (upright),
then you need to do two things. One is to put moleskin and breathe right strips inside the ear or ears to stand them up
and the second thing is to glue the hair together on top of the pup's head, so that the ears stay up high on the head and
don't bend to the side of the pup's head. I use a product called "Skin Bond". You can order it at your local pharmacy.
Here is a place to order Skin bond online. JBWholesale
Moleskin and Breathe Right strips can be purchased at the pharmacy or Walmart.
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx If you look close, you can see a faint outline of a breathe right strip.
pp

___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

This method was put together by Eric Larson. Used with permission.

1. You'll need Skin-Bond or Torbot adhesive, http://www.torbot.com/ moleskin, q-tips, and string ( I also bought the adhesive remover).
2. Take the two pieces of moleskin and cut the shape and test it in the ears, then cut a mirror shape for the back of the brace. Once you have the 4 pieces (yes they are two pieces of moleskin stuck together so it is fuzzy on both sides).
3. Place two q-tips (fuzz removed) in each brace in a tent shape towards the point. Before you stick the two moleskin pieces together make two loops with string and tie little knots on each end of the string. Place the string on the moleskin overlapping the q-tip with the knots making a loop that hangs over the edge.
4. Now stick the twin pieces of moleskin together.. WOOHOOO! Now you have a brace(q-tips inside) and a loop on the edge.
5. Now to glue it in the ear. Use skin bond.. but before you glue... clean the pups ear, oil in the ear will prevent the glue from adhering. Now get out the Skin Bond, put it on the moleskin (make sure you put it on the intended back with the loop on the insides) and now put skin bond in the ear (has to be dry).. you'll have to hold the pup and may need two people. Wait for the skin bond to dry, then stick the brace in the ear.. glue sides together(this takes practice to get it right, I fold it long ways so it looks like a taco :) then i stick it in the ear and smooth it out). Do the other ear. Now you have both ears with braces and two loops sticking out the side of each brace (btw the loops should be facing each other). Wait for a while for the bond to be final. Once it is secured take another piece of string and tie the two loops together.. and BAM your pups ears are on the way to standing up.
I hope this may help anyone out. I"m sure you can use breathright strips but I personally think they cost a lot and the q-tip works great. Don't leave these in for more than a week. Take them out at least once a week and clean the ears and let them dry out for a few hours before putting new ones in.

If you like the tipped look, then you can used the skin bond to glue the tips down,but you must apply hand lotion
to the crease in order to soften the cartledge.

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Free Demo & Clicker Traning DVD's

* Lock-Eye Border Collies Demo Video or DVD

Free video-$10 charge for postage and handling.

This video shows my dogs herding, playing, Search and Rescue, as well as Lock-Eye's in Agility!

2-hours long.

*************************************************************************

*Lock-Eye Border Collies Clicker Video or DVD

This tape shows 2 puppies being trained to:
Sit,down,come,fetch,roll over and wave using the clicker training method.
(Rising Sun Over Lock-Eye "Solar" and Lock-Eye Drake are the stars.)

** Extra footage**
Lock-Eye's in Agility, Search and Rescue and Frisbee® dogs!

Free Video-$10 charge for postage and handling.
Want a clicker? Add $2
40 minutes long

..

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Herding Training DVD's for sale

Lock-Eye Border Collies has produced a realistic video on how to start your stockdog. Especially important is our
information on how to raise your pup from 8 weeks until it's old enough for herding training. Many potentially great
pups are ruined by uneducated owners!

Our tape/DVD shows many different types of dogs and their first days on stock. (Actual first days.)
The video shows their training progress until they are working cattle in the pasture.
Both cattle and sheep are used to train the dogs on. This is a 2 tape set and is almost 4 hours long.

Cost: $55 Postage Paid

To order send a check to:

Lock-Eye Border Collies
Rt 1 Box 603 Westville, OK 74965
(918) 723-3052

Email: lockeye@hughes.net

 

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Email: lockeyebc@gmail.com

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